Fushimi Inari shrine wonderland(4)

This article introduces Fushimi Inari Shrine, a popular destination for both Japanese and international visitors. We hope you will experience the mystical atmosphere of Fushimi Inari by taking a tour of Mt. Inari.

In the previous installment, we covered up to the O-tsuka mounds at gozen-dani. For this fourth installment, we will introduce the “hidden sanctuary” of Mt. Inari, located behind the Three Peaks of Inari.

The profound history of Mt. Inari, etched like tree rings, and the people’s faith that has been passed down for generations make this one of Kyoto’s must-see power spots.

Please see the links below for parts 1, 2, and 3.

gozendani Junction

From gozendani, the path splits into two.
The left route passes by Kiyome-no-taki Waterfall and Kasasugi Shrine on the way to Yakuriki Shrine, while the right route goes through Kasuga Pass to Yakuriki Shrine.
If you want to save time, take the right route from Kasuga Pass to Yakuriki Shrine.

Kasuga Pass

If you take the right path at the gozendani junction or head towards the Prayer Hall, you will find a series of ascending stairs.
This area is called Kasuga Pass and it connects gozendani to Yakuriki Shrine.
In 1911 (Meiji 44), a ceramic sutra cylinder containing 32 types of treasures, including 10 scrolls, an old mirror, a flower vase, a metal bowl, and old coins, was discovered near Kasuga Pass.

Path to Kiyotaki

Instead of going through Kasuga Pass, you can go down the stream from gozendani and head towards Kiyotaki.

There is a small stream by the path, and the water from this stream forms a waterfall further ahead.

This is a clear stream. Rainwater that flowed into gozendani comes out as a stream.

Kiyotaki

This is Kiyotaki Shrine. Perhaps because of the waterfall, the torii gate and stone monuments are covered in moss, creating a unique atmosphere. The torii gate is very short, and Kiyotaki waterfall is on the right.

The stream from before falls as a waterfall.
It is said to have been a place of worship for people for a long time.
There is a Kiyotaki watch station, directly managed by Fushimi Inari Taisha, nearby.

The O-tsuka mounds in the surrounding area stand in a dense formation on the steep slope and are also covered in lush green moss.

This is the shrine building that enshrines Kiyotaki Okami.

The shrine building is in the center, and the O-tsuka mounds are lined up on the slope to the right.

Kiyomeisha

Kiyomeisha comes into view as you return from Kiyotaki toward Mt. Inari.

Kiyomeisha is also a place for ascetic practices, and Kiyome-no-taki Waterfall is located behind this building.
This is a relatively large building, and it is possible to stay overnight here.

Tenryusha

If you climb the stairs from Kiyomeisha, you will see Tenryusha on your left.

The stone pillar reads “Fushimi Inari Kosha,” so this also appears to be a shrine built by general followers. The stone pillar on the left reads “Maizuru Tenryu Branch.”

Sanbonsugisha

This is a shrine that has three cedar trees as its sacred trees.

It is said that spiritual power resides in old cedar trees, and there seems to be a special sentiment toward the cedars used as building materials for temples and shrines.
Next to this Sanbonsugisha, there is a shrine dedicated to a single cedar tree, which shows how much the cedar trees of Mt. Inari are treasured.

Of the three cedar trees, one has died and only the trunk remains.

This is the shrine building that enshrines Sanbonsugi Okami.

Yakuriki-sha Junction

The route from gozendani that passes through Kiyomeisha and Kasasugisha joins the main path just before Yakuriki-tei.
Since the Kiyomeisha route is a minor one, you will return to the main route here.
The photo above shows the view looking up towards Yakuriki-sha from the direction of Kasasugisha.

Guidepost at the junction next to Yakuriki-tei

To the right is Kiyomeisha, and straight ahead is Kasuga Pass. Yakuriki-sha is on the front left.

Yakuriki-sha O-tsuka and Yakuriki-tei Teahouse

When you come down from Kasuga Pass, you will see the O-tsuka mounds of Yakuriki-sha lining the entire slope on your right. This is also where you join the main path if you are coming from Kiyomeisha.

The O-tsuka mounds and the teahouse are actually integrated, and this teahouse, unique to Mt. Inari, incorporates that atmosphere to create a cheerful feel. It is small and cozy, and you can stop here for a rest.

On your path through the numerous power spots, this is a precious resting place where you can find a moment of relief and rest your tired body and mind from the “austere training” that is the O-yama Meguri.

As the name suggests, Yakuriki-sha is said to bring good health and recovery from illness, and Osekisha, located further ahead, is said to be effective for throat ailments such as colds and asthma. For this reason, many singers and performers visit this shrine, and you can see some familiar names on the “noren” curtain of Yakuriki-tei teahouse.

Map of Yakuriki-tei and its surroundings

Let’s reconfirm the O-yama Meguri circular route. We have completed about one-third of the journey.

Yakuriki-sha

This is the shrine building of Yakuriki-sha.
A pair of parent and child foxes are enshrined in the shrine, symbolizing safe childbirth, and have been an object of prayer for the prosperity of descendants and safety of the household since ancient times.

There is also a type of straw sandal called “Negai-kake Waraji.” It is said that by dedicating these straw sandals, your wish will be granted, based on the saying, “to grasp at straws” (Wara ni mo sugaru omoi). It is said to be effective for good health, recovery from illness, and safe travels.

“Negai-kake Waraji” (Wish-making straw sandals)

Additionally, you can draw up groundwater with a hand pump, and it is said that drinking medicine with this sacred water will enhance its effect.

This is a view of the entire Yakuriki-tei area from above. Yakuriki-sha is on the left and Yakuriki-tei is on the right.

Yakuriki-no-taki Waterfall

At the back of Yakuriki-sha, you will find Yakuriki-no-taki Waterfall.

As the highest waterfall on Mt. Inari, it has long been a sacred place for ascetic practices.

Osekisha

A number of torii gates have been dedicated at Osekisha.

It is said that Osekisha was originally a shrine for “Sekisho,” or checkpoints, but at some point, it became a shrine that brings relief from “seki,” or coughs.

These are the stairs next to Osekisha. They lead to Chojasha (Mitsurugisha) ahead.

Looking back from the long staircase, you can get a panoramic view of the valley of Yakuriki-sha.

Mitsurugiya

After passing Yakuriki-sha and climbing a long staircase, you will find “Mitsurugisha.” It is also called “Chojasha.”

The teahouse in front of it is “Mitsurugiya.”
This is the shrine and teahouse located in the most secluded part of Mt. Inari.
Situated in a mountain valley, it is dim even during the day, and the surroundings are enveloped in silence.

Chojasha Mitsurugisha

This is the torii gate of Chojasha. After passing through the gate, the shrine building of Mitsurugisha is on the right.
In the back, you can see numerous O-tsuka mounds. They extend all the way up the stairs.
It is said that a shrine dedicated to the ancestral spirits of the Hata clan once stood on this site.
This shrine was one of the oldest on Mt. Inari.

Later, Mitsurugisha, which enshrines “Kamo Tamayorihime,” a goddess of blacksmithing and fire, was built on this site.
Behind the shrine building, giant sacred stones called “Kaminari-ishi” (Thunder Stone) and “Mitsurugi-ishi” (Sacred Sword Stone) are enshrined, and it is said that lightning is sealed within them.

In this way, Mitsurugisha is one of the sacred sites of Mt. Inari because it is said to have been a shrine dedicated to the ancestral spirits of the Hata clan.

Mitsurugisha

This is a unique sword-shaped chōzuya (purification basin).

In addition, as shown in the photo below, there is a small well called “Yakiha no Mizu” (Water for quenching blades), which is said to be the place where the famous master swordsmith Sanjo Kokaji Munechika forged the famous sword “Kokitsune-maru” in the Noh play “Kokaji.” At that time, it is said that a fox from Mt. Inari appeared and assisted in the forging of the sacred sword by striking with a hammer.
With keywords like “fire,” “lightning,” and “iron,” it is thought that this god is familiar to people in the blacksmithing and ironworking industries, but not only that, many people visit to pray for success in all kinds of scientific and industrial technologies.

There is a similar well at Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine, where it is enshrined as Aizuchi Inari.

Mitsurugi-ishi

This is the sacred stone “Mitsurugi-ishi” of Mitsurugisha. It is also called “Kaminari-ishi.”
This giant single rock has been here since ancient times, and with its shimenawa rope, it looks as if it is imbued with divine power.

This is “Mitsurugi-ishi” viewed from the side of the shrine building. It is enshrined as a sacred stone directly behind the shrine building.

Let’s check the map again. From here, we will go past Harusugisha and head for the Three Peaks of Inari.

The messenger of the path

This is the messenger of Inari, the “fox,” that greets you on the path.

It has an intelligent face, square ears, and narrow eyes, and is beloved by people as a divine messenger. The photo below is of a fox located past Mitsurugisha in 2013.

Here is an explanation about “foxes” and “Inari Okami.”
Foxes are merely divine messengers and not Inari Okami themselves.

One of the Inari deities, “Uka-no-mitama-no-okami,” is also written as “Kura-ina-no-okami.” This means she is the god of rice and rice paddies. She is also identified with “Miketsukami,” a general term for gods of food, and it is assumed that the strong connection between Inari Okami and foxes came from the fact that this name can also be written as “Miketsukami” using the characters for “three foxes.”

Furthermore, Inari foxes were given the name “Myobu,” which was used for court ladies, and were identified with shrine maidens serving the gods, which is why they came to be called “Myobugami” and were enshrined in the upper and lower shrines.
The foxes at Fushimi Inari are always placed in pairs of two, and the fox on the left facing the gate generally holds a scroll, while the one on the right holds a sacred jewel.
Incidentally, the fox on the left facing the main gate holds a key, and the one on the left facing the Inner Worship Hall holds rice sheaves.

This is a fox from 2019. The base is quite mossy and the body has rusted to a brownish color. Its eyes are still as stern as ever…

This is the fox on the opposite side, which forms a pair.

Harusugisha

This is Harusugisha, which also enshrines the god of a bountiful harvest.

As you can see on the map, it faces the easternmost part of the circular route.
In terms of distance, this is the halfway point of the O-yama Meguri, but because of the change in elevation, the real challenge is yet to come.

Stairs to Ichi-no-mine (First Peak)

From here, you will climb the stairs all the way to Ichi-no-mine, the highest peak of Mt. Inari.

Our destination is the distant Ichi-no-mine.

This is the greatest change in elevation on the entire O-yama Meguri and the final challenge.
These steep stairs continue for a while. It feels more like mountain climbing than a pilgrimage. In the summer, be sure to stay hydrated and proceed at your own pace.

This concludes Part 4. The next installment will be Part 5.

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